Gone for a Month

Wow, I've done one month on my own in another country at 18. I've been gone for a month. 'Gone' was my first word so maybe that was the start of something all that time ago. Or it was that I had just eaten something and said it. I'm leaning towards that but the greater meaning thing fits better. However I'm really enjoying this ride so far. I've learnt a lot about myself, independence, teaching style, money control and all sorts of other things. Whilst enjoying every second. 

I've realised I like fish. Maybe not the fish cooked in England (that's nothing against my mother, brother or father's cooking...) it's just here they make it taste beautiful. Or 'chnang' which is delicious or depending on the way you say it 'cooking pot.' So I get some weird looks at restaurants when trying to compliment the food. The soups they have here....yum! The pork, the spices, the bitter and sour, the bbq's are all great. Also I ate rat. Tasted like pistachio a bit. It wasn't a sewer rat. It was one that swims in the dirty lakes and rivers but also lives on land so wasn't huge but wasn't tiny. If someone offered it to me I wouldn't refuse it but I wouldn't eat the whole thing probably. When I was back in England I knew that some food had to taste more than what we had and that I was missing it! So I'm glad I'm here, catching up...by eating rat. Whilst not really having to worry about weight issues because you sweat more off whilst you are eating the stuff! 

The language I'm getting there with. It will take time, I can do directions, marketplace, food ordering and classroom environment but I can't do conversation. So it's no good when I ask someone what they did at the weekend and they reply to which I have no idea to what they said. I just nod and say yes which has led to a few situations where I have placed joke bets. At least I hope they were jokes... So as they in 'Field of Dreams' 'They will come' or in my case 'It will come' it's just a matter of practising a bit at a time. Certainly when my teaching stops it'll drop as I won't be speaking it everyday to kids who have the patience to listen. On the other hand  there are others who I have made friends with who do have the patience to teach and help. I just don't want to not keep learning it. As it is so useful to have a second language. Although I had an embarrassing moment the other day...I managed to learn some not so good words just because they would become useful. Possibly to say to a tuk tuk driver eventually! They also taught me a respectful term for lady. I thought 'great! Thanks guys' Next day in class I use it when talking to a girl...Turns out the word is the same one we use for a girl dog. Cue embarrassment all round. Will have to use some of those words with the people I learnt that one off! We learn from our mistakes though. I now won't forget it, nor will I use it. 

Heat. As you can imagine it's hot. Very hot. Some days it rains and guess what it's hot. At the time of writing this it's 33 degrees. I'm not too bad though I think playing football in this weather in Bangkok and here means that I have become more accustomed to it and am able to deal with it. That's not to say if I had the chance I wouldn't jump in a swimming pool. It just means that I'm not constantly dripping like I was when I first got to Bangkok. So as I've been learning on this ride my body adapts pretty well after it gets used to the toilet.

I have had to be fairly careful with money because I didn't have a lot and I have to pay for things like rent and deposits and food in the coming months which I may not have a paycheck coming in. This weekend I am going around looking at places to live hopefully. Then next week it will be CV central as it'll be my last week at the guesthouse. I really don't want this teaching to end. I've grown with my kids. I have loved it. When I have been tired on a Sunday night I was looking forward to Monday to see them again and there cheekiness. I would miss it after only two days! So not doing it for a while, whilst trying to find a job will be annoying. 

These two last days I have been playing football with the kids at break times. Finally! They played often but didn't invite me. As I was a teacher. Then the older kids in another class asked me if I wanted to play. Of course. So now break times I go play! Come back in sweating as the bell rings, just like being back at school! Although here you have to wash the dripping sweat off of you before you go back to class and clean your dirty feet as you play barefoot. Which isn't a great idea considering what we play on... 

The goals are our flip flops. Picture doesn't do it justice of how uneven it is. 

This weekend will be hard but I hope to maybe find somewhere to live but also I'm attempting to get another haircut so hopefully it goes better than last time...

Haircut attempt last time. They call it 'The Hitler'...

However I must ride on to the next stop and see what it holds for me. 

Song: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S0nlygb1Qfw

Delve into Teaching

Well another week over. I really cannot believe this. I remember when Mum said that she wanted me to have something to go to for when I got there for her peace of mind. My immediate reaction was 'pfft, she doesn't know what she's talking about.' As it got closer to the time I was becoming more and more glad that she had said to book this. As you know what? I am really happy that I did this. Somewhere to sleep and eat for six weeks to be able to set up a base of operations and organise anything from there on out. 

Last week was Sihanoukville where it rained and that was about it. The other volunteers went out in the club next door whilst I managed to sit and watch my first World Cup match which was Uruguay-Costa Rica I think. Then we left the next day. I didn't really like Sihanoukville but perhaps it was because of the rain, hotel and only being there one day. Phnom Penh has a lot more going on. Then again Phnom Penh doesn't have a beach! Whilst I was wandering down the beach, I did manage to snap this shot whilst sat on a coconut. 

Coconut Shot

Then it was back to Phnom Penh on a funny mini bus ride with the other volunteers who had to shoot back to the Orphanage, whilst the rest of us, sat and chilled. Me knowing the next day I was back at the place that I really enjoy. Somewhere I got excited to be at. Somewhere where I was getting fulfilled. Somewhere where I can muck around and learn whilst these kids learn from me. Whilst chilling I was getting worried because I was running out of things for my students to learn. We managed to scrap through this short week (Public holiday on Wednesday) however next week will be tougher. I'm sure I'll think of something. This week I did get them doing postcards. So I had to find somewhere where they sold them for a cheap price. I hadn't seen any apart from the professional ones that cost $1 a shot and I needed 27! In the search I accidentally came across Cambodia's equivalent of Iceland though. It was a huge supermarket at the back of a shopping mall and everyone working was so uninterested, shelves half stacked, other places empty and sticky and workers just sat chatting. After that life experience I did find some old dusty ones in the back of a shop that I managed to get for $10. Sorted. So the next day I explained and they were all very excited!...As you can imagine they had the enthusiasm of a lethargic giraffe to write English to someone they didn't know ( My kids aren't excited about writing only talking it, same with me and khmer so I can understand), I think there was a bit of lost in translation but I eventually got across I was going to send these home and then they were more excited about it. Finally! So I got them to do it. A lot were very similar to each other, as they copy all the time. Same as me at school with German to be honest. Here they just shout 'Lok Pa! Lok Pa! He/she look!' They have just started to call me 'Lok Pa'  Lok is a respect thing similar to Mr. and Mrs. Whilst Pa is father. So it's nice to know they do really like me. Anyway they were a written and will hopefully be sent home this weekend. So have fun with that Mum when 27 postcards turn up on your doorstep! 

My morning class

My afternoon class

The night before the public holiday was a volunteer teacher's birthday. So we went on a boat and drank which ended up being fairly messy and ended up at karaoke which is a great night out for Cambodians as I found out. Sorry Ma! However then on the public holiday me and another volunteer-Mel decided we would go to Russian Market and have a wander. We did some shopping but it was very hot and stuffy. I bought two Khmer phrase books, so it's starting to get serious my language learning! After that it was two more great days teaching. This weekend it's saying goodbye to some volunteers and general oddjobs such as rewriting my cv to focus on the English teaching. Eek! 

Russian Market-Food section 

Link this week: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g3Cs-bZ2YX0

English tutor in Phnom Penh http://www.gregprestontutoring.com/

2 down 4 to go

Well, what can I tell you? These past two weeks have gone rather quickly. By Monday I'll be half way through already! That's mad. Time really just goes. Do it now before it's too late. As I have gotton to learn about these kids, from their names, to aspirations, to hobbies, to homes. They really have begun to affect me. I think when this is all over, tears will be shed. 

Day to day I'm teaching a general overview of the English language, in fact I'm running out of simple things to teach. My class has the biggest discrepancy of levels. Some kids are very good, others have a small grasp of the language. Therefore trying to cater to all levels makes life fairly difficult but who doesn't love a challenge. Trying to keep them all engaged within my lessons is the hardest part. 

Every Friday they have a test. Which is a general revision of the weeks work, so it writes itself essentially. Then they have a simpler lesson after which is mostly games. However yesterday after the test I got them teaching me Khmer as a table turner. They loved it! Engaging them on a different level as they became the teacher and me the student. Being a teacher means they get respect. Lots of bowing and a different attitude to learning to the one in England as the teacher is to be respected here. Which is good as I wouldn't quite know how to deal with a khmer kid mouthing off. 

At break times I get to go out and play with the kids. Whether that's 'chose bi chun' (kick the shoe) a game which is similar to bowls or curling but you use your shoe haven't quite fathomed it yet; or football shuttle cock which I think I managed to somehow bet a $1000 on with my small bit of khmer. All a bit of fun but the kids love it and so do I. Some of the very young ones are completely gobsmacked when I speak khmer. They just stare, mouths agape. 

Apart from that what's been happening? Generally football with some expats and then football with some locals on the riverside. Most of my money is spent on delicious food. This consists of fish (yes mum, fish of many types, some I don't even know) cakes, apples, mango and many others. I then was robbed last night by a monk! I always tell people don't shake hands or out your hands out as people will put stuff on them and you are expected to pay. What do I do? Shake hands with the friendly monk, 5 minutes later a massive shark tooth necklace and two bracelets I'm $5 down. God dammit. Never mind at least i have been blessed. I think. After dinner and a chat with a very drunk American bloke who eventually ended up having a fight nearly with the hotel owner as he took his money away to get him to stop buying alcohol. I went for a walk. Everything being offered as per usual 'tuk tuk' 'lady' 'marijuana' one of these moments I was distracted, uneven floor and a tripped and my flip flop broke. Flip! I was walking along trying to fix this and again I was offered a tuk tuk right next to my hotel.

 'No' 

'What happened '

'Broken'

He takes it from me and fixes it. After a joke of me nicking his flip flops, he says sit down. So we talk in Khmer! It was slow but I got my ideas across and understood his. Eventually after a while of this he says 'Yeung Chang baan kumpong' which translates to 'we would like beer' I fathomed out what he was saying and managed to get out of there not in a harsh way it's just the culture here of drinking. I also wasn't going to buy beer for people I'd just met and not drink any of it. 

Then it was bedtime. I was fairly tired quite early as I read that you can solve toilet problems by not drinking caffeine and I had been drinking a tonne of coke. I was also up early to catch a bus to the beach town of Sihanoukville. 

Which I'm now on as I write this. Watching Khmer dubbed 'Avengers' I just hope it's nice on the coast!

Link this time: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rbNP5yqg7hc

Poverty and teaching

Well after a couple of days doing nothing and playing football I got ill. I have had toilet problems of all types. Slept many hours, slept few hours. Now it's gone to my head and throat. Just as I start teaching I lose my voice completely! Never in my entire life have I lost my voice in it's entirety. Maybe a bit, after shouting it raw at a match, but never like this. So yesterday I went to school and observed these lovely kids being taught then in the afternoon I taught... We'll get to that later. 

However for now we'll talk about Cambodia's poverty. Obviously here, in Phnom Penh it is unbelievable. They will raise up debts trying to save their sick mothers or fathers and then have to sell their rural farms and so come to the Capital to find work. With that as you walk down the street you see so many people bedding down for the night on the pavement or under a bench or a group of families together on a corner. It is saddening but I have been dealt the cards that have allowed me to not have to deal with that. So I dealt some cards of my own...

In Phnom Penh there is a particular restaurant many tuk tuks will take you as they get food for it. So I asked to go there deliberately, food for one person achieved. Food for me next. At this restaurant they will sit you near the front so the beggars can come and try to sell to you. I didn't want to be hassled as I was already starting to feel ill. So asked 'Can I be sat further back please?'

'No understand, sorry, sit here' This person then went on to take my order...

Never mind. Maybe it's too hot for the sellers. I was wrong. One, two, three came by. 'Book?' 'Bracelet?' 'Scarf?' 

Then a fourth kid came by. He started playing these games with me. Rock, paper, scissors to get you to lose (I didn't) so you have to buy something. Arm wrestling. All sorts. None of which I lost. I can proudly say I'm stronger than a malnourished 15 year old kid. So instead of sending him away I thought of sticking two fingers up at the establishment. 

'Have you eaten?'

'Me?'

'Yes'

'No I need 2000 riel' 

'Okay' 'You want to eat now?' 

'Yes 2000 riele'

'No, you can eat with me'

I give him the menu. So for once in this kids life. He was going to get a full meal of whatever he wanted with no backchat from me (I did have a panic attack when he said he jokingly said he wanted a $24 steak) and he wasn't going to pay a penny. He was going to be able to order these staff around who usually shout at him if he overstays his welcome. The waiters and waitresses didn't like me very much after that...I asked about him a bit. He was 15 and had been selling things for 10 years earning less than a dollar most days or nothing. As the items he sells aren't his so he pays most money to the book shop owner. So I'm glad I gave him something he himself could have. He gets up at 5 to play football before school and then goes to school at 7. Leaves at 11. Then comes to the Riverside and starts selling for the rest of the day. Then plays football maybe at 5-6. Then back to selling till maybe 10 later if it's a weekend. For ten years he has done that. For ten years he has worked 9 hour days. Just think about that for second. There are people my age who still haven't worked a 9 hour day. They certainly wouldn't work for 9 hours for less than 60p. Incredible. Then again in England he'd be credited with a 'great work ethic' to write on his cv. Then not be hired because he has no office experience. It's just so messed up. I'm glad I gave him something. He remembered me as well when I saw him a few days later. Hopefully because he saw me as a good person not as $$$. I want to be able to say I have a positive influence on people and that's the start. 

Well anyway enough of me reenacting 'My Fair Lady'  Another thing I saw the other day as an example of poverty is the kids will share football boots. They will find enough money to buy a pair then have a boot and a sock each to kick a ball about. You just can't believe it. The culture here is a lot more open though. The complete opposite to England. In England the culture is if you go out for a meal you pay for your bit or you split it by however many people. Here, there's none of that. They pay by however much they have. The best way to describe it is if there are two tuk tuk drivers, one has a good day, the other has a bad day. Tuk1 makes $10 and Tuk2 makes $5 both need $3 for fuel tomorrow. They need food so what do they do? Tuk1 pays maybe $5 and Tuk2 pays $1 just because that's all he can. They have no issues with it. It doesn't arise next time of 'remember that time I paid more?' They just let it go. That is the culture here. If you have nothing and I have slightly more than that I'll give you half of it. We're fairly greedy as a populace in England and isolated. Go on the underground, hear how deathly silent it is. Here a tuk tuk driver will take you somewhere then won't say 'I'm going back because I don't want to talk to these people' They make friends immediately and chat. It's fantastic. 

As for teaching? Well... I tell you what I was terrified as I met other volunteers all of whom were doing everything other than teaching. Then learning about the teaching project itself. Having to lesson plan. Am I doing it right? Will the principal get annoyed? As I left I to go to the school I couldn't be more scared. Emails were drafted to the project manager seeing if I could get it shortened to less than 6 weeks. As we drew closer. Screw it! I could walk to England from here. They would never know. As we pulled up hearing children chant in the classroom, I could just faint right now and they would have to take me somewhere else. Anywhere but here. As I walk in. I meet the other volunteer who was there, calming down a bit. Children running out for break... Aren't they gorgeous? All smiling laughing and above all no grotty little children not wanting to learn. I observed in the morning and in the afternoon I taught. It flew. I'm just annoyed I have had to have a day off because I have no voice. I can tell these six weeks will fly now I have broken it in. All worries washed away. Ready for it all now. 

My link today is: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj1AesMfIf8

That's where I was going to end this blog but today I saw something very saddening. 

At my project we teach less than fortunate children which is more than often than not, the norm. But today I saw how bad some of them have it. My school is great. It's free. They give out free rice to the families of the children to replace the work hands lost. As the children go to school instead of helping to farm. They help with paying for the public school uniform, they can't go to public school without it. So I was invited out today to take some pictures of where these kids live. I don't think I said a word apart from a happy hello to the gleeful children at seeing foreign visitors. These children who will know no better. My school is in a bit of suburb. Imagine an Uxbridge to a London that's the distance I travel everyday. These little towns exist all over and this is what they live in...

Dank, smelly and overcrowded

Kids walk on this bare foot. 

A Tuk Tuk driver, he will drive 35 minutes into Phnom Penh to work for 9/10/11 hours and come back. Today he has not gone out. So no money...

Packed in like sardines

Water running next to the path. Stagnant and smelly. Imagine cutting your foot on a rock and then stepping in that. 

Not all bad though. Huge sense of community and still time for volleyball!

These are little houses set up by an NGO, fairly recently. They get these for two years and pay 30,000 (£4.44, not a lot to us but it is to them) riel in utilities. How you get one of these I don't know; but the ones that do feel very lucky. They are all on stilts to keep insects away I think I was told last year. 

So all in all a very eye-opening experience and a very hot one at that, 37 degrees walking around taking these pictures. Those blokes were playing volleyball in it! 

I hope the ones that get to go to school and study, become something, so they can get out of this. 

We are so lucky. 

After that I don't think 'Here Comes The Sun' is an appropriate link but I don't want to link to a new one down here because nothing can convey the sadness I felt for the children and the families in these squalid conditions. 

The beauty of Cambodia

After a dreadful border crossing. Well not dreadful as it was quick and easy to get through when you know how to not get conned. Through and done in 30 minutes. The dreadful part was the other side waiting for a bus. Got to the bus station at 12 didn't leave it till 5. I paid extra to get on a minibus at 3 because I didn't want to wait any longer. Got on it then told we had to wait for three more people. Okay no worries. Fell asleep thinking by the time I wake up we will be on the road. At 4.30 woke up to an open revolt to the people who didn't want to pay the extra 100 baht (£2) to get on the minibus. I paid because I knew this free big bus was never gonna turn up. Or if it would then it would only leave when the border closed at 10. Then it would be 5 hours till I'd get to siam reap. So no bother, 100 baht I'm not using it in Cambodia. People got angry, very angry.  French people screaming, drunk Australians, swearing Cambodians. Not a great introduction to Cambodia for people who had never been here before. I hope they realise it wasn't there fault just the Thai people who took us to the border saying the big bus leaves at 2:30 then proceeding to scam most people  so everyone was very wary of paying extra. The heat didn't help. 

I also want these people to realise that Cambodia is a beautiful country. There smiles just light up their whole face and they are all just lovely. For example today whilst writing this I am on a bus going to Phnom Penh and we just stopped off at a restaurant for a break. Fairly expensive $4 for a burger. So I wasn't buying anything just stood inside cooling off. Then this guy has these weird berry type things. Intrigued I take a look and he says do you want some? Never a person to be a fussy git. I took the plunge. Salty and juicy very...okay. Bit like blueberries but less refreshing and more salty with a big seed inside it. I had a fair few but they were completely happy to share in their own restaurant. Never asked for money, all smiles. It's things like that which is why I love Cambodia. Just genuine happiness and a what's mine is yours mentality. 

I've been in Phnom Penh for a few days now just relaxing mostly and playing football. Most is as I remember and do you know what? I love it. I really do. I had second thoughts when I was leaving that it was all just the holiday Greg thinking that it was brilliant. However it wasn't (thankfully) it truly was my heart that loved Cambodia. Whether after I start my volunteer work it will be as lovely from the stress of teaching. Although I think it'll be even better, as I'll start to become a part of a community and I won't be spending as much money!

My link today is: http://youtu.be/1vrEljMfXYo The better version of this is the United chant but that might make things confusing