Khmer New Year 2019

As i sit with my legs cramped against my face and sharing the seat with a jack fruit and durian. I start to reflect on where I've been and what's been happening. 

It's probably been just about 5 years since I started my love affair with Cambodia. However, anytime anyone asks I always seem to find myself replying 3 years. Perpetually stuck in 3rd year syndrome. To know a lot about a place but can still find something new to appreciate and be surprised about. It's true as I can now appreciate that I hate sharing a seat with a spiky jack fruit and the slight smell of vomit; don't know if that's the durian or the vomit of a small child suffering from motion sickness. 

5 years in, I knew when I came back that I was here for a long while. But 5 years with a sandwich year of England in there has gone quick. So much has happened, much beloved friends have come and gone, I have gone and come back. But the constant has been the kingdom of wonder, people I meet here still get enchanted by the place, to us long stayers we are realising that Phnom Penh is losing some charm but the people are still just as enchanting and warm. That can't be bought by the Chinese as much as they'd like to! However the invasion was always going to happen, it's too sweet a city for it to not happen. 

 I always said I'm happy with my feet on the ground here but I didn't realise I could be happier. I'm settled socially, I realise I'm much like my father, happy with constant football. I remember his Wednesday night five a side. I'm now playing Monday night 8 a side, and Thursday night 8 a side and Saturday afternoon, 8 a side. Although I don't remember him doing quite so much as me. However his legs were much older than mine then! The fellas I play with are a great bunch so it makes it very easy to go and join them and have a laugh. 

On top of this, I'm working as a coach. I coach and play football most days. I may not have completed the dream of being a footballer although I'm still young! Ian Wright made his breakthrough at 26 so I have time. But coaching football is scratching that itch. It can be tough and especially now in these next few months being very hot but we work around it. I know what I want to do now and it involves coaching. It's nice to have something to aim at with a long term goal. I'll get there, no rush yet though. Just an interruption into this blog post - I've now been shoved into the back to share a seat with an above average sized lady meanwhile my roommate sits in my previous place all on his own! He's 4 seats to 1 person. We're 4 seats to 8 people! 

Next month, my brother comes so we will be going to the beach together that'll be a nice midpoint between going home for my sisters wedding and now. It's his first time here and thus far everyone that's come has loved the country especially my mum so hopefully them coming will add another enchanted to the list. 

Right now, however, it's khmer new year and we're battling the heat with intermittent power cuts due to drought but the EDC (Cambodia's electric company) said for holidays they won't turn off the power. So at least for a couple of days the heat will be durable. Just before the KNY kicks off i have been to my roommates province because he wanted me to go and meet his family again and spend time there before he has to go back to work on Monday 15th. So we've been there for 2 nights and 3 days. Much, much cooler than the city. Using a fan was fine rather than in the city air con and fans aren't enough! However travelling there and back has been a pain. No private taxis so have had to ride khmer vans with motos strapped to the outside and sharing a seat with 3 other people or if you're lucky sharing sweat! It's been fun! 

And to end on a final note, my roommate has just had 3 people shoved into his seat so we're both suffering now! Revenge is sweet after all. 

Link for the blog a Khmer new year song from 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KId8GJ57Kyw

All the best

G 

P.S.- the slight smell of vomit wasn't vomit at all it was the 3 live chickens that just got out with another family. Must be a sacrifice to Khmer New Year... 

P.P.S and his flip flops just got vomited on. 

Under 17 Tournament

So I wrote this and then sold my phone so lost it! It was another football write up for COP's last tournament with me at the helm.

When I first joined the team as a coach it was at the exact same tournament. Under 17s. It was my first experience with them and my lack of khmer was really difficult. I was trying to give advice but could not get it out. Incredibly frustrating.

They came dead last and missed all their penalties.

This tournament was much better. Their maturity in the six months with them was incredible. I know they had matured from playing in the big boys league. So it was an interesting experiment to see what would happen when playing in their own age group once more.

We had just started a new warm up technique so we got all players to turn up early. The tournament started at 0730. We got them there at 0645 and warmed up until 0710. Due to their only being one pitch and the way the pools placed us, our first game? 0930. No need to get there so early! Never mind we played on.

The first game and first half was dire. It was against a team that had some muscular kids and had just battered a team about 4-0. So COP was playing nervously. We had to get to half time.

Half time arrived and we hadn't scored nor had they. It was shaky but we could do it. I had to shout at them and reignite their desire for it. I asked what have they come for? To win? Or to play nicely? They replied they wanted to be champions. I had to get onto Vitu's back telling him if he has come to watch then he can sit with me. Something my Dad used to ask me.

Second half began. I made two subs. A workhorse of Rothana on the right side and our secret weapon of little Roth (13 yrs against big 16/17yrs) in the middle and moved Vitu to the left. It worked. Rothana bust down the right hand side, played in a cross and Vitu was on the end to head it in. 1-0. Now because this was a while ago, I can't remember as to how they equalised but they did. 1-1.

Our secret weapon, little Roth worked. He made some nice movements and Rothana put in another cross of which he headed in. 2-1. Just before the end of the game another chance came of which he volleyed in. 3-1.

Match number two. Local rivals.
Had to win to advance. First half again was sloppy and they went 1-0. We never looked like we had it in us for most of the half. But then one of our thinkers got the ball, Mony (17 yrs), He played a quick passing move with little Roth and he got it back and scored. 1-1. However they were still all over us. Get them in again. Change it up. My assistant coach spoke to them tactically. I spoke to them passionately. I took Vitu off, he had some blisters from playing in the heat. Brought Rothana on again. We were playing better and were more sound defensively. Though we weren't scoring. Brought Meng (16) off and replaced him with Vitu. Last minute of the game a ball came from the left from little Roth beating his man. Crossed it in, Vitu checked his run and side footed it into the bottom left hand corner. 2-1. Full time.

Semi final. Big rivals who's captain had looked down upon us. He had previously practiced with us but had left under a rain cloud.
We played well and were sound. It was a feisty game. With our most improved player Ro getting a yellow card for some afters. Also Vitu getting a yellow card for lashing out. We were doing fine, just couldn't unlock the door. We hit the bar. We made the keeper work a fair few times. It just didn't want to go in. Then a lapse of concentration from our defender meant they got in one on one and scored. Never mind.
The lads heads were down. They were panicking and lost their heads in actual fact, 3 players went to close down one and he slipped a ball through 2-0. Game ended a couple of minutes later. We ended up hitting the bar twice and the post once. With the keeper tipping it round to a corner 4 times. Unlucky.
Penalties with the other losing team to find out who came third.
Now as an English man I'm never confident with these. Especially since what I had seen all those months ago and we hadn't practiced them since. Little Roth had the confidence to say he wanted to go first. So he was one out of three chosen.
The other two were the captain Hab and Vitu.
Roth steps up and misses. I told him to pick a corner, not change it and shoot. He didn't change it but he tried to shoot into the corner too well and it went past the post.
They scored. Pressure on.
Vitu steps up and scores.
They scored. 2-1.
Hab steps up and scores. 2-2.
They step up and it's saved by our keeper, Meng (17). True heroics. He'd saved penalties in the big league as well!
Another player needed to be picked to take the fourth. I choose Mony.
Steps up and scores. 3-2.
They step up and miss!
We did it! Third. What an improvement, I regret I wasn't able to give them a trophy. But after coming dead last and then in six months coming 3rd. Looking back I'm incredibly proud of their efforts and the result. Of course, the fairytale would be champions. Though it didn't happen. I will remember it forever. Thanks COP, you made me, yourselves and our fans incredibly happy and proud of you. To the next one.

Link for the day: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RJqimlFcJsM

6 Months ago

Hab stepping up for a penalty

Waiting for the first game

Dark photo but, third!

One Year on

Wow, how quick has that gone. Unbelievable. 20th May 2014 I left England with hope and trepidation. So far the trepidation has gone, the hope is still here but most of all it is excitement and happiness. I can't believe how much has changed in 365 days.

In the first couple of months i was staying in the guesthouse which was no problem and working in the volunteer school. This was also the start of getting used to the diet, the people, the weather, the culture and the city. The hardest was probably the diet. For 18 years i have eaten potatoes, bread and cereal. This was turned upside down when it became rice, rice and beef or pork. It was a gradual transition to enjoying but it makes so much sense now. Before it was to fit in and save money. Now it's a staple part of my diet with me rarely going out my way to find western food unless it's cheap or chocolate. The rice in the morning fills me up until 12:00 or 12:30. If i have cereal, that will only fill me until  11 or 11:30 and i'll want to eat again or have a snack. So now it's all rice or noodles.

The people were no problem at all so welcoming and lovely which is why i love this country anyway. The weather can sometimes be too hot which is not much of a complaint compared to England's grey weather. The city is pretty easy considering it's got big avenues and numbered streets so I learnt it pretty quickly, it's a lot easier than London to say the least! The culture, i'm still learning and i find it fascinating and love learning more all the time. Like just recently i found out they have another language within their language! For example i knew that they have language if they ever talk to the king, another language for speaking with monks and recently i learnt they have rhyming language a bit like cockney rhyming slang. Which is another step up from just learning the base language!

The language on the other hand, i'm still coming to grips with. I've just started having lessons two weeks ago and the teacher thinks some of my vocabulary and idioms are very good for a foreigner. This is probably due to me hanging out with my khmer friends and picking up the local slang rather than the polite 'correct' way to speak that the locals don't actually use but foreigners learn. So i'm pretty happy with my small grasp of it. My teacher has just been teaching me the basics that i completely missed such as food, colours, objects, basic nouns and verbs that are needed and helping me with my pronunciation. So far, so good.  

Then in August, i got a job at a primary school which if you have read has been pretty good experience so far and i have learnt so much. It has been really great to watch these children grow and develop and use words that you have taught them! Especially in the kindergarten! We recently had a run through in kindergarten of our 'family day' celebration and my K1 and K2 looked so grown up compared to N1 and N2. Especially K2 as they are nearly in P1. It made me proud to see these children maturing. All the way through from K1 to P4 they have really calmed and matured and become better than when i first started teaching them.

Every once in a while i would reflect what i was doing in the time last year and I'd think how much has changed. From working in customer service in Uxbridge and living in Chalfont St Peter to then move to London and commute to Uxbridge every day. Playing football every once in a while. To then helping educate poor children and then educating well off children and then moving into my own apartment at 19! Playing football every day. It truly is bliss. Never in a million years would i think i would have a job, house and be master of ceremonies for the second for my schools family day celebration next week!

 If i could change one thing it would be being able to survive whilst educating the poorer children of Cambodia. I really want to help my old volunteer school with their students, it's been documented that it is not good for the children to be constantly forming connections with teachers and then the teacher suddenly disappearing and changing. Plus it means they are always learning the same thing over and over. Not actually developing their understanding of English. Even though i only have one year's experience i really think i could help them. Although i would be working for free... so it's 

trying to work out a way to work there and live.

So what will the next year bring? I don't know but I know that if it was anything like the last then i'm in for a blast! Even though i'm living day by day going to work and coming home and it's practically the same routine, i'm so excited for it.

Link of the day, not much to do with the article, just been listening to it a lot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0PjECSyJ7w